The blogger, Evie Shelley, recently embarked on a solo trip, spending six unforgettable weeks in Accra, Ghana volunteering with us at the Billa Mahmud Memorial Future Leaders School, where she supported a range of activities from conducting research, to helping renovate classrooms.
During her time in Ghana, we organised a couple of trips for Evie to visit Osu Castle and Cape Coast Castle. These had a great impact on her, which she has written about and we are pleased to be able to share here:
Exploring Ghana’s Rich History: A Visit to Osu Castle and Cape Coast Castle
Volunteering with Futurestars in Ghana has been an enriching experience and one that has allowed me to connect with the community, witness the country’s vibrant culture, and learn about its complex history. While much of my time has been dedicated to supporting youth education and development through Futurestars, I’ve also had the opportunity to explore some of Ghana’s most iconic historical landmarks. Among the most impactful were my visits to Osu Castle in Accra and Cape Coast Castle on the country’s coastline. These visits were deeply moving, offering me not only a glimpse into the past but also a greater appreciation for the resilience and strength of the Ghanaian people.
The Historical Significance of Osu Castle
Located in the centre of Accra, Osu Castle, also known as Christiansborg Castle, has a history that spans centuries. Built by the Danes in 1659, it served as a trading post during the transatlantic slave trade. Over the centuries, the castle changed hands between European powers, including the Portuguese and the British. In the 19th century, it became the seat of colonial government for the British Gold Coast. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, Osu Castle continued to serve as a government seat and official presidential residence until 2009. Today, it stands as a symbol of Ghana’s colonial past and national political evolution.
Walking through the entrance to the castle, its history feels oppressive. This site, which once held so many lives in captivity, now stands as a reminder of Ghana’s turbulent colonial past. On a beautiful sunny day, looking out across the Atlantic, our guide began the tour. The history quickly overshadows the setting we found ourselves in, especially upon walking into the castle’s dungeons. There are really no words to describe how suffocating and uncomfortable it is to hear the stories of what occurred there and it left a profound impression on all of us there that day. But despite its dark history, Osu Castle has become a symbol of resilience. Today, it stands not just as a remnant of colonialism but as a beacon of the strength and determination of the Ghanaian people to reclaim their narrative and move forward.
A Visit to Cape Coast Castle
A few days later, I travelled to Cape Coast Castle, one of the most notorious sites of the transatlantic slave trade. Built by the Swedes in the 17th century and later taken over by the British, the castle was a primary location where enslaved Africans were held before being shipped to the Americas. Our tour guide described the experiences of slaves graphically and in great detail, creating a truly haunting image of what it used to be like.
The conditions in which the enslaved people were held were horrific. It’s almost impossible to imagine the immense suffering that occurred within these walls. But the most haunting part of the visit was standing in front of the “Door of No Return,” the final threshold through which millions of Africans were forced to walk before they were taken across the sea.
As I stood in front of the Door of No Return, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was standing in a place where history was irrevocably altered. The sheer scale of human suffering that took place in that very spot is overwhelming. Yet, as I learned more about the history of the castle, I also came to understand how Cape Coast Castle has become a symbol not only of the horrors of the past but also of survival and the strength of the Ghanaian spirit. The legacy of those who passed through the castle, both the enslaved and those who fought for their freedom, lives on in the nation’s identity.
Comparing the Two Experiences
Visiting both Osu Castle and Cape Coast Castle gave me a deeper understanding of the interconnectedness of Ghana’s past, from colonial rule to the brutal reality of the transatlantic slave trade. While Osu Castle is often associated with the more recent era of British colonial rule, Cape Coast Castle stands as a more direct symbol of the atrocities that took place during the era of slavery. Both are powerful reminders of the injustices that shaped Ghana’s history, but they also highlight the resilience of the people who have fought for independence.
What struck me during both visits was the sense of hope and resilience that pervades Ghanaian culture. While these castles stand as stark reminders of a painful past, they also serve as symbols of the nation’s ability to overcome adversity. Ghana, and the people I’ve met here, are living testaments to the strength of the human spirit and the ability to rise above even the darkest moments of history.
Outside one of the dungeons, there is a plaque on the wall that reads, “In everlasting memory of our ancestors. May those who dies rest in peace. May those who return find their roots. May humanity never again perpetrate such injustice against humanity. We, the living, vow to uphold this.” This powerful quote left many of us in tears. It reinforces the importance of acknowledging historical wrongs while working towards a more just future.
As my time volunteering with Futurestars comes to an end, I find myself reflecting not only on the incredible work being done today but also on the deep historical currents that have shaped Ghana. Ghana’s story is one of triumph over hardship, and the history I’ve encountered here is a reminder of why it’s so important to continue striving for a brighter future, both for the people of Ghana and for the world at large.
Image credit : gmmb.gov.gh/cape-coast-castle-cape-coast-1653/